Cycle Kerala & Tropical India

Flights usually depart London in the morning.

The adventure begins in Mysore. After checking into our hotel, we have a short introductory briefing and time to relax (we may have to wait until around noon if rooms are not ready). We meet at lunchtime and have a short post-lunch walk around the markets. In the late afternoon, we have a bike briefing and fitting in the hotel courtyard. In the evening, we have a full trip briefing before an optional group dinner.

Accommodation: Hotel Sandesh The Prince (or similar)

We start with a leisurely morning ride to Srirangapatna, the ruins of Tipu Sultan’s capital, which were destroyed by the British in 1799 during their final battle to secure control of southern India. The fortress stands on an island in the middle of the Cauvery River; once over the bridge, we cycle around the old ramparts, enter Tipu Sultan’s Mosque and the Ranganathaswamy Temple before riding back to Mysore for lunch.

For lunch, you get your first taste of thali, the southern Indian meal of rice and multiple small curries on a plate, or the typical south Indian masala dosa, a thin pancake made with fermented rice and lentil batter.

In the afternoon, we have a guided tour around Mysore Palace. Also known as the Amba Vilas Palace, it is the official residence of the Wodeyars, the former royal family of Mysore, which ruled the princely state of Mysore for more than seven centuries. The decor is stunning, if a little bit over the top, and the former maharaja is still in residence in his private quarters.

Accommodation: Hotel Sandesh The Prince (or similar)

We leave the hotel and cycle out of Mysore town up to Chamundi Hill to view the 16.5ft (5m) rock carving of Nandi, Shiva’s celestial bull. There are also good views over the whole of Mysore. We then cycle back down the hill and continue along the quiet backroads, along with the children riding a bike or bus to school. We also share the road with herds of white oxen and women in colourful saris carrying waterpots on their heads.

Our ride takes us through the backroads to a quaint little village where we stop to enjoy a picnic lunch. After a comfortable lunch, some rehydration and rest, we continue to Chamarajanagar. We should arrive at our hotel in Chamarajanagar by late afternoon to relax by the pool or enjoy a cold drink.

Accommodation: Nijaguna Resort (or similar)

After breakfast, we ride along the villages outside the forest areas to witness village life and continue along the backroads to the outskirts of Bandipur Sanctuary.

We should arrive at our hotel in Bandipur National Park in time for lunch. In the late afternoon, we take a 4×4 safari in the park to see lots of peacocks, spotted deer and monkeys, with the chance to see wild elephants, Indian bison, and, at certain times of the year, the elusive tiger.

Accommodation: Bandipur Safari Lodge (or similar)

Today is the highlight of the trip for some, ascending 4,104ft (1,251m) to Ooty (Ootacamund), a resort town in the Nilgiri Hills and the former summer capital of the Raj.

After an early breakfast, we take local transportation to Kalhatty, a small village on the way up. Due to cycling restrictions to mitigate animal-human conflict, we start our ride just outside the forest area, from the 20th hairpin of the 36 bends. It’s a very steep ride up with stunning vistas at every turn; we have plenty of photo opportunities along the way, which double as rest stops. Reaching the top is a huge achievement and we should all take a moment or two to bathe in our success!

Alternatively, enjoy a relaxed morning and journey up the hill in the support vehicle. After tea and cake at the top, we have an undulating ride into Ooty.

Ooty is called the Queen of the Hill Stations and, although it is now a busy little town, there is lots to see and do. Originally occupied by the tribal Todas, the area came under the East India Company at the end of the 18th century. The British introduced tea, and the hillsides around Ooty are covered in tea gardens.

Arriving late morning, we take lunch in our hotel. The afternoon is free to explore town and sample the local cardamom tea. Both the Botanical Gardens and the Rose Gardens are a short walk from our hotel. In town, there are many shops selling locally grown tea and oils and homemade chocolate.

Accommodation: Fortune Resort Sullivan Court (or similar)

After breakfast, we have a stunning ride across the rolling Nilgiri Hills, the backdrop for many Bollywood movies, before starting the dramatic descent, dropping 6,560ft (2,000m) through the hills and tea-covered slopes of the Western Ghats. The ride offers fantastic views over the hills below and there are spectacular viewpoints. After 34mi (54km), we reach Gadalur, a typical Indian town with one long high street selling everything, with shop fronts covered in colourful adverts and cheap children’s toys. We have a tea break here before heading towards Kerala with the final 12.5mi (20km) descent through tropical rainforest and bamboo-covered slopes to our end point at a typical Keralan roadside restaurant.

The bikes are loaded as we enjoy lunch and then transfer (3hr 30min) to Guruvayoor to avoid busy roads. Please note that although the road is not very busy the road surface today is probably the worst of the trip. There are many potholes and the road surface is not even. Please take care and concentrate while cycling.

Arriving in Guruvayoor, we have time to relax before wandering into town to sample delicious Keralan street food and have an evening stroll outside the temple, which comes alive at night. It is one of the most important places of worship for Hindus in Kerala and the fourth-largest temple in India. The town is filled with devotees dressed in traditional Keralan costume, who come here in their thousands to offer rice, flowers and gold to Lord Krishna, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu.

Accommodation: Sopanam Heritage (or similar)

Today, we cycle by the Shree Krishna Temple. A little further is another religious centre, Palayur Church, one of the oldest churches in India and founded by Saint Thomas the Apostle, who landed in India in 52 CE.

From here, we head towards the coast, cycling along country roads lined with mango and coconut trees. There are plenty of photo opportunities as we observe traditional life. Later, crossing bridges, we cycle onto Vypin Island, arriving at Cherai Beach early afternoon. The rest of the day is free to enjoy this stunning location and swim in the Indian Ocean. Cherai is known for mouth-watering fresh seafood, so for dinner, you could try jhinga kachcia aam kari, a speciality dish from Kerala made with green mango and prawns simmered in coconut milk and spices.

Accommodation: Sea Lagoon Health Resort (or similar)

We set off from our beach location towards the port city of Kochi (formerly Cochin), cycling south and passing through small fishing communities where colourful boats are hauled up along the sands. Turning inland, we see grand houses built with the remittance money from the Gulf States workforce, plus older houses constructed during the British colonial period. Please note, the traffic levels are high for the last 5mi (8km) as we arrive at the main road to board the ferry to the Fort Kochi neighbourhood. This has a unique place in Indian history, and to soak up the atmosphere we spend the next two nights here. After hotel check-in, we wander down to one of the restaurants in the old harbour area for lunch. Those wishing to visit the Indo-Portuguese Museum should do so today, as it is closed on Mondays.

Accommodation: The Dutch Bungalow (or similar)

Today is a free day to explore Kochi with its bazaars and old harbour area. The Portuguese established a base here, followed by the Dutch, who were forced to hand it over to the British in 1841. A potpourri of Indian and international communities, it is now the bustling commercial capital of Kerala and consists of several islands connected by ferries. Most of the major sights are close by in the neighbouring areas of Fort Kochi and Mattancherry. Warehouses that smell of tea and spices are lime-washed bright green, yellow and blue; rickety old bikes and hand-painted trucks piled high with goods fill the narrow streets and food stalls stand on every corner.

St Francis Church is close to the hotel. Built by the Portuguese in 1503, it is the burial place of explorer Vasco da Gama and his tomb is inside the church. Further along, you come to Mattancherry and the Dutch Palace. Constructed by the Portuguese in 1568, it was gifted to the Maharaja of Kochi before the Dutch took it over. Close to the palace is Jewtown and the Paradesi Synagogue. Built in 1568 for the Jewish members of the Kochi trading communities, it is adorned with hand-painted tiles from China and elegant Belgian chandeliers, all donations from wealthy merchants. The area around the synagogue, Jew Street, is a heritage zone with many antique and handicraft shops and is excellent for shopping.

For a culinary experience, try the fish market near the Chinese fishing nets, where you can buy the day’s catch and have it cooked to your taste. There are also plenty of shopping opportunities here.

Accommodation: The Dutch Bungalow (or similar)

Riding from Fort Kochi, we pass 500-year-old Portuguese villas, a striking contrast to the tiny fisherman huts dotted along the beach road. Many of these fishing villages are Christian; at the coastal town of Arthunkal, the old stone church dominates the surroundings and is best viewed from the shade of a coconut tree while we have a tea break.

Continuing along the coast road, we head to Muhamma, the start point for backwater trips, and spend the night in a lakeside resort. The tranquil gardens are as relaxing as the Ayurvedic massage and treatments on offer to guests. In the afternoon and early evening, relax on the veranda as backwater life unfurls before you.

Accommodation: Deshadan Backwater Resort (or similar)

After a lie-in, enjoy an optional 13.5mi (22km) bike ride to explore the village or relax. Around midday, we board a backwater houseboat for an unforgettable trip to Trikunnapuzha. These converted rice barges have two-berth cabins and come with their own cook. With our bikes stacked on the side of the boat, you won’t see the saddle for another 19 hours, so just relax and watch the world pass.

Vessels of all sizes use the lakes and canals that make up this fascinating network of waterways. On one side of the canal, vast paddy fields of iridescent green stretch as far as the eye can see; on the other are fishing nets and coconut trees. As the sun begins to set, the boats are moored together and we gather on deck for sundowners.

Accommodation: Overnight houseboat

We have breakfast on the houseboats as they move from their overnight mooring point to our disembarkation point. Here we meet the support vehicle and set off along a quiet coastal road, passing by Amrithanadamayi Ashram, better known as the Hugging Mama Ashram, a spiritual retreat overlooking the backwaters.

We then join the main road to Quillon and have lunch at a seaside guesthouse: the fish is bought fresh from the market and cooked in mild spice and served with poratta, a favourite Keralan bread. After lunch, we are back on quiet roads for the last 18.5mi (30km) to Varkala, a small laid-back community with coffee bars and yoga schools perched along the clifftop. We spend the next two nights here.

Accommodation: Sajjoys Hotel (or similar)

Today is free to relax and enjoy the beachside location. There are several beach shack restaurants for lunch, serving excellent seafood. Try the tandoori dishes, the clay ovens give a more authentic taste to breads and curries. The last night’s meal is generally at the hotel with a fusion of all your favourite Keralan dishes.

Accommodation: Sajjoys Hotel (or similar)

The adventure comes to an end today. Those catching the group transfer to the airport will have a very early departure this morning. For everyone else, the trip ends after breakfast.

If you’d like a little longer to explore, speak to your sales representative about extending your stay.