Most Inspirational Moment
Hard to pick, but either the stunning river valley along the Afgan border, the extraordinary scenery in the very remote area between Lake Zorkul/Djartygubez and re-joining the Pamir Highway.
Thoughts on Group Leader
Tour leader was well organised and very helpful. Ideally he'd have known more about plants and birds etc, but as he stepped in at the last minute, due to the planned leader (who was more of a mountain guide) having a family emergency, he did extremely well. The drivers are exceptional. They minimised the bumps and made me feel safe on roads that would normally have me shutting my eyes.
Advice for Potential Travellers
If you want an adventure through staggering scenery and an incredibly welcoming country and don't mind roughing it, go on this trip. However, the roads are very bumpy (I am pretty sure all the Toyota Prados we had needed a full service after the punishment we gave them), the drives can be long, you will be sharing rooms with potentially several other people (max 5 in our case) and washing facilities can be basic. Make the most of the hot springs. No matter how delicious it looks (it is), do make sure you avoid all uncooked fruit and veg unless you have washed it yourself in bottled water, even in the nice hotel in Dushambe. Ask if you can pre-book a single room in Qalai Khumb after the Bartang. For some reason it was not included in the single supplement. Similarly the Pamir Hotel in Murgob isn't necessarily included in the single supplement (due to only a few en suite rooms. That said the shared showers at the end of the corridor was more likely to have warm water.) Altitude increase is pretty gradual and they have back up plans if you do get altitude sickness. Nobody in our group seemed to have anything worse than a mild headache. NB a side effect of Diamox is diahorrea, so think carefully before taking it. I was given ciprofloxin by the Tajik doctors . Amoxycillin did nothing for my traveller's tummy. The tour organisers were amazing at getting me medical support.