For Exodus customer, Beatrice Van Den Heuvel, the Salkantay Trek was more than just a chance to visit a world-famous site—it was an opportunity to share a meaningful adventure with her dad. From camping under starlit skies to celebrating her birthday at the Inti Raymi celebrations in the Sun Temple, their trip was filled with unforgettable moments that deepened their bond along the way. With the help of their exceptional local guide, Holger Collantes, the duo immersed themselves in every detail of our Salkantay Trek, from savouring local cuisine to uncovering the fascinating history of Machu Picchu. Read on as Beatrice shares her once-in-a-lifetime experience with us.
“As a family, we’ve always been very outdoorsy and love doing long walks together. My dad has completed a lot of hikes over the years with his friends, and I was keen to join him. When he retired, the stars seemed to align for us to go on a trip together, and Machu Picchu was always on my bucket list. So, we booked in January to go in June 2024, and it was very special. In fact, spending all that quality time together made me appreciate how similar we are.”
Reflecting on the physical aspect of the trek, Beatrice said, “We didn’t actually do anything in terms of fitness training beforehand, but I’m a personal trainer, so exercise is just part of my daily routine.” She continued, “We found the hike reasonably easy as we live very active lifestyles. The only thing we were apprehensive about was how we’d cope with the altitude, but because we were with the group, we all generally walked quite slowly. In hindsight, that was great, as it helped us acclimatise. I was really proud of my dad for being the eldest in the group – he’s 71 years old – and he was always at the front of the pack, setting the pace.”
Beatrice shared some tips on how they both acclimatised to the altitude. “We all enjoyed cups of coca tea and had quite a lot to drink every morning and at lunchtime. We also brought some Diamox tablets with us and arrived an extra day early in Cuzco to acclimatise before the walk, and I think that really helped us.”
“Our group was surprisingly fit. We were all sort of moving more or less at the same pace. Fortunately, nobody got unwell with the altitude or needed extra support along the way. They all just kind of got on with it. The running joke was that everybody was powered by Haribo’s – everyone except my dad and I, who snacked on the Peruvian fruit the porters shared with us. One of my favourites was granadilla – it tasted like passionfruit. We were impressed by the little snacks we were given – organic little quinoa things, very natural, unprocessed and tasty.” As part of Exodus’ 50th Anniversary departures, the group also shared a slice of Exodus’ birthday cake made by the cooks during their hike!
The timing of the trip couldn’t have been better as their visit coincided with the Inti Raymi Festival in Cuzco, which also happened to fall on Beatrice’s birthday. “My dad and I had done some research before travelling and we found out that the Inti Raymi Festival, which marks the winter solstice in the Southern Hemisphere, was happening in Cuzco when we were there. The biggest celebrations were actually going to be held on my birthday. I contacted Exodus to see if the schedule could be changed to move the free day to a different day so that the whole group could be part of the festival – and it was extraordinary!”
Exodus arranged tickets for the first ceremony at the Sun Temple, securing ringside seats to one of the most celebrated events in Peru. “Our guide, Holger, took us to the Sun Temple so that we could all find our seats in good time before the show began. It was all really well managed by Holger and the Exodus team. Before the celebration started, Holger took us to a café to grab some food for a picnic, and then we were transferred in minibuses that took us up the hill, so we didn’t need to walk the distance.”
“The entire day was great. It wasn’t just the celebration at the Sun Temple; there were also huge processions in the streets of Cuzco, and the whole city was packed with people enjoying the festival. It was fascinating to see everyone dressed up in their traditional garments and eye-opening how the different groups danced and celebrated. I couldn’t believe it when Holger said they celebrated like this in the streets every day in June. I would have been really sore about missing out on the Sun Temple show if Exodus hadn’t been flexible to accommodate a change in the schedule.”
Beatrice had nothing but praise for their expert local guide, Holger. “He was exceptional. We couldn’t fault him at all – he was a real asset to the whole trip. His knowledge of everything – from geography and economics to endemic plants and Peruvian history – was amazing. We saw lots of hummingbirds along the route and even a chinchilla lounging on a rock, which we wouldn’t have spotted without Holger. At Machu Picchu, he gave us an in-depth lesson on its history, and that was a very special moment. Just sitting there, taking it all in and looking out at the views was unforgettable.” She continued, “Holger also chose brilliant restaurants when we went out for meals as a group. He didn’t take us to touristy or commercial places but to restaurants that supported local communities or were sustainable in their approach. One restaurant, for instance, had 280 different varieties of potatoes and supported a local organic chocolate company. It was on the main street but hidden up some stairs – we would have walked past it if Holger hadn’t know about it.”
Camping was another highlight of her journey. “Dad and I used to camp a lot when I was a child, but we hadn’t been camping in years. My husband and I have a camper van, so I’m quite used to being out in nature. The last time I went camping with my dad, I remember those thin foam mattresses that were always uncomfortable and cold, so I was surprised at how comfortable the blow-up mattresses Exodus provided were. It does get chilly though, so I’d recommend layering up with lots of socks and hats. On the second night, at the highest point in the trip, it was so cold – I think it was -5°C. Just before we went to bed after supper, the porters came and gave us all a hot water bottle each. It was amazing. They just sort of surprised us, and we couldn’t believe they’d carried all of these little hot water bottles just for us. That was a real treat.”
Stepping outside the tent to see the stars was a magical moment for Beatrice. “The second night of camping, we were in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by mountains under this amazing sky. The only sound you could hear was small avalanches of snow falling in the distance. It was the first time I had camped in the Southern Hemisphere, so seeing the Southern Cross was pretty special. One thing I’d recommend bringing though is a headtorch – it’s handy when you’re searching for the toilets in the middle of the night!”
Beatrice described her favourite view on the trek. “Walking through the Sun Gate and seeing Machu Picchu for the first time, surrounded by mountains, was extraordinary. As my dad said, it was like a sense of arrival. The trail itself felt like a pilgrimage. When we got there, we were hit with a wave of emotion. My dad and I certainly felt very tearful, we just turned to each other and dad said, ‘Well, it doesn’t get better than this, does it?’ It was very moving to finally get there. We felt a rush of adrenaline like we could have kept going! It wasn’t necessarily a demanding or challenging trek, but it was just that feeling of finishing a pilgrimage for us.”
Another memorable moment from their camping experience, Beatrice explained, happened on “the last night when we camped at Phuyupatamarca. We woke up the following morning above the clouds, and Holger pointed out that we were almost looking down onto the mountain where Machu Picchu was. That was really cool, and the group got excited in anticipation of finally reaching Machu Picchu.”
The trip was also packed with little surprises that made the experience even more special. “After visiting Ollantaytambo, Holger decided to stop randomly at this little bakery where they served the most amazing corn empanadas. They were stuffed with meat and steaming vegetables, and they were just delicious. It was just this one woman making six different varieties of empanadas – and she was doing a booming trade! We also had chicha morada, that purple corn drink.” She continued, “Another time at the beginning of the trip, when we went on our acclimatisation hike around Cuzco, we stopped to visit a textile factory. I thought it was fascinating to see the looms and learn how the yarns were dyed. There was also a beautiful gallery of Peruvian textiles – but the really fun part came when we got to feed hay and grass to their alpacas and llamas out the back of their store!”
Reflecting on the trip, Beatrice offered advice to future adventurers. “If you’re not used to walking consecutive days, building up stamina is important. But as my dad said, ‘If the opportunity comes about, don’t hesitate!’ For us, it was an amazing trip of a lifetime, and we immediately said, ‘Right, where are we going to go next?’ This whole experience definitely brought us closer together. We haven’t chosen our next adventure yet – but watch this space!”
If this has inspired you to join our epic camping trip along the Salkantay Trail, take a look at our Salkantay Trek, or view our other Inca Trail trips.
