Most Inspirational Moment
Enjoyed all - the treks to the base of Fitzroy (especially back to Laguna de los Tres which is very like the Cairngorm area of Scotland) and to base of Torres del Paine (in a snowstorm); the short walk in Tierra del Fuego, the 3pm cruise on the Beagle Channel to Penguin Island. But if I had to choose then the two best moments were: - *Trekking on the Viedma Glacier on a gloriously sunny but cold day with an excellent guide team who provided and fixed crampons on everyone and helped you see into crevasses –complemented nicely the following day in Los Glaciares National Park walking around the boardwalks surrounding the Moreno Glacier. * The panorama from the top of Cerro de los Cristales (1282M), Lago Roca on a beautifully sunny clear day seeing Lago Argentina, Glacier Perito Moreno, and Torres del Paine without any cloud in a brilliantly blue sky.
Thoughts on Group Leader
Xavier was a really nice, helpful guy who was passionate about his country and very conscientious in ensuring we enjoyed the holiday. He readily engaged in conversation and was very informative in that context. He was particularly great helping us to sort transport etc re climbing Cerro Cristales on our own. Could possibly have been more forthcoming with general information about Argentina and Chile to the group as a whole especially when on the long bus trips.
Advice for Potential Travellers
Take dollars – can exchange readily. We got some Argentinean and Chilean currency from M&S before we left at a good exchange rate. In Chile 19% tax is added if you pay for a meal in pesos rather than dollars. Safe airport taxi system –Taxi Ezeiza – in the middle of the airport lobby. You pay at the desk (can pay in dollars) and then wait till escorted outside to your taxi. We also used this system back to airport- our group leader booked for us, told us the price and we paid the driver (try to have right amount or round up). Be aware of pickpocket scam in Buenos Aires – walking up Belgrano we were sprayed by something that looked like birdshit from behind. A nice middle aged lady offered me paper/water to clean up. She had some mates. As you clean up however your gear is stolen. Fortunately my husband was wise to the scam (I’d forgotten about it) and shouted to me to walk on. We cleaned up at the Hotel Dazzler where they told us a client had had his wallet stolen by this method the previous week. It’s not an urban myth. Pack for Scottish winter walking in the Cairngorm using a layered system (so if its warmer than what we experienced you’re covered). We had beautiful weather in general (plus one snowstorm that was actually fun) but were grateful for warm gear. Buenos Aires was variable (windy and wet when arrived, sunny and warm when left). Trekking poles are really useful. Wi-Fi was available at the hotels we stayed at throughout the trip but was slow. If you don’t already use What’s App get it for texts and photos (free under wifi). Most of the museums in Buenos Aires only have Spanish captions. Subway system good and cheap though told to wear backpack to front on it. If you have extra time in Buenos Aires, a day trip to Colonia in Uruguay by ferry is enjoyable. We went by Busquebus, booking on a Sat for a day trip on the Sunday. We also went a day trip to the Tigre Delta which was interesting. Train from Retiro Station then commuter bus to Tres Bocas. Some short walks there and two restaurants. Tigre has an Art Museum housed in a beautiful French Style Building – worth seeing. At El Calafate Laguna Nimez Bird Reserve is worth visiting. However if you are into walking try to do the Cerro de los Cristales climb at Lago Roca (CalTur bus at 8.30 am returns at 6pm 200 pesos). Quite hard going but worth it for the views if weather kind to you. From Lago Roca private campsite walk up to junction turn left, walk by path to Rock Paintings on right then just before a road leading off on the left to the lake there are two posts (minus the signboard) on the right that mark the start of the route. About 40 yds from these into the walk you’ll see another marked signpost. Route is obvious till near top where there can be snow. Scree at top but it is ok especially if you have poles. Allow 7 hrs round trip. Watch the weather especially winds at the top. Foodwise: difficult for vegetarians but if you can eat fish its fantastic. Really enjoyed Ayres Patagonicos El Chalten (informal, good food good music), La Tablita, el Calafate and Hotel Las Torres in Torres del Paine.