Most Inspirational Moment
For me there were two amazing moments. The first was at the Buddhist festival at Matho, when after hours of watching masked dancers and musicians, surrounded by expectant crowds of Ladakhis, the oracles appeared and raised the event to a very different level. The second unforgettable moment was when we were sitting on a ridge in the Husing valley and got a message to say that a snow leopard was visible from down in the valley. We sprinted down the mountainside and got to the spot where we saw a snow leopard going up the hillside and over a ridge - but not before he turned round and looked straight at us. This was both something I'd never expected to experience, but had also in some way been waiting for for 30 years. We saw snow leopards on two other occasions: once when stalking (unsuccessfully) a blue sheep; and the other when after watching it sleep, stretch, sleep for hours, it finally roused itself and walked slowly across the mountainside across the valley from us. I managed to switich my camera to video, and the 3 minute film I took is on YouTube.
Thoughts on Group Leader
Valerie Parkinson is the best leader I've ever had - or could hope to have. Her knowledge and understanding of Ladakh, Tibetan Buddhism, wildlife and 'people' is immense, and she shares it with generosity and enthusiasm. She had lots of difficulties to cope with, and did so with complete professionalism, but also with calmness and reassurance.
Advice for Potential Travellers
Be prepared to take life very easy when you first arrive in Leh. It's quite an altitude jump from Delhi, and most people need a couple of days to acclimatise. It's cold in winter, so take as good quality warm gear as you can afford. And a set of light-weight crampons (Kahtoola microspikes) was really useful on the frozen rivers. In our group there were people with super cameras and others with compacts. The super cameras produced some amazing photos, and even those with compacts managed to get some shots. But I took a Panasonic Lumix 'bridge' camera (FZ150) which was light, robust and easy to use, and gave me some brilliant photos and video footage. Oh, and snow boots were really good for keeping my feet warm - as we spent a lot of time sitting and standing and waiting.