Jordan to Egypt: Nabateans & Pharaohs

Welcome to Amman, the capital of Jordan, where our adventure begins.

Accommodation: Hotel Khan Khediwe (or similar)

The group flight from London usually arrives in Amman late tonight or very early in the morning tomorrow. We’ll catch our transfer to the hotel and head straight to bed.

Accommodation: Hotel Khan Khediwe (or similar)

We have our welcome briefing this morning with our Jordanian tour leader. We leave the hotel and head on foot to the Roman amphitheatre. Constructed in the second century, when the city was called Philadelphia, the steep-sided structure is built into a hillside and is one of the most popular attractions in the city.

We then continue by minibus to the ruins of Amman Citadel, which sits atop the highest hill in the city. The site has been occupied by various civilisations from the Bronze Age and there are Roman, Byzantine and Umayyad structures visible today.

Next, we drive to the Dead Sea, the lowest point on Earth, with time to bob in the salty waters. Finally, we return to Amman for the evening.

Accommodation: Hotel Khan Khediwe (or similar)

We leave Amman this morning and head to Madaba where we visit St George’s Church, where we admire the mosaic floor, considered the oldest map of Palestine in existence. We then make the short drive to Mount Nebo; from this 2,295ft (700m) high viewpoint overlooking the Dead Sea to Palestine and Israel beyond, Moses is said to have first seen the Promised Land.

We continue south along the King’s Highway to the archaeological site of Umm Ar Rasas. This little-visited Unesco World Heritage site was initially developed as a Roman military camp and grew into a town from the fifth century. It is unexcavated and has remains from the Roman, Byzantine and early Muslim periods. The ruins contain several churches and the impressive mosaic floor in the Church of St Stephen is a highlight.

From Umm Ar Rasas, we reach the Desert Highway and continue our journey south to Wadi Rum. Sandstone mountains rise from the sandy desert floor. It was here that Lawrence of Arabia and Prince Faisal assembled the Arab tribes for the attack on Aqaba in the First World War and where sections of the 1962 epic film Lawrence of Arabia were shot.

After checking into our Exodus camp, we have time to sample Bedouin tea, and then watch the sunset. In our camp, we have a traditional zarb dinner, which is cooked underground.

Accommodation: Exodus Bedouin Camp

This morning, we have a four-hour 4×4 tour of some of the highlights of the Wadi Rum protected area.

We then leave for Petra, about two hours’ drive away.

One of the New Wonders of the World, it was founded by the Nabateans, an Arab tribe that arrived here in the sixth century BCE. It’s now one of the most recognisable monuments on the planet, built down a series of chasms and carved directly into red-yellow sandstone that glows in the sunlight.

Accommodation: Petra hotel – see accommodation section for more detail

To enter Petra, we begin by walking down a narrow chasm known as the Siq – unveiled at the end is El Khazneh, the Treasury. This is just the first breath-taking sight of a remarkable day. Continuing to the city centre, we pass the houses and tombs of the rich citizens who once lived here and the remarkable scale of the site begins to unveil itself. An optional walk can then be done up 850 steps to El Deir, the Monastery, with its superb facade topped by a huge urn.

Accommodation: Petra hotel – see accommodation section for more detail

This morning, we take a guided tour through Little Petra. The purpose of this site is not clear; however, archaeologists believe it was probably a suburb of Petra where visiting traders on the Silk Road may have stayed.

We leave Little Petra behind and head for the Desert Highway and onwards to Amman airport. The drive takes about three hours. At the airport, we say a fond farewell to our Jordanian leader and take an evening flight to Cairo.

In the capital of Egypt, the ancient and modern worlds collide – sometimes chaotically! We meet our Egyptian leader at the airport and drive to our hotel in Zamalek, an island on the Nile.

Accommodation: Flamenco El Zamalek Hotel (or similar)

We begin our day with a visit to Giza, where the pyramids of Khufu, Khafre and Menkaurestand testament to the ingenuity of the ancient world. The largest of the three structures – known as the Great Pyramid of Giza – is Khufu’s and remains the only one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World that still stands.

It is possible to enter the Great Pyramid (ticket bought locally, not included); however, this is not for everyone, it is a confined space and usually crowded and hot.

There is also an opportunity for a short camel ride, costing about US$10 for those who wish to do it (payable locally).

We next visit either the Grand Egyptian Museum (scheduled to open in late 2023, subject to change) or the incredible Egyptian Museum of Antiquities. Both unlock the extraordinary history of the country through fabulous relics and treasures and deepen our understanding of the ancient world.

We visit Old Cairo today, taking in important Christian, Muslim and Jewish sites. We start with the Hanging Church, a Coptic Christian church dating to the third century, which sits above a gatehouse of the Roman-built Babylon Fortress. We continue to Amr Ibn Elas mosque, an important centre of Islamic learning for more than 600 years. Next is Ben Ezra synagogue, the oldest Jewish temple in Cairo. Local legend says this is where baby Moses was found.

We continue the day with a walk in El Moez and Khaymeya streets, sampling typical food and drink as we go.

Finally, we’re taken to the train station for our overnight sleeper to Aswan (approximately 13-14 hours). Please see the accommodation section for more information on what to expect.

Accommodation: Sleeper train

We arrive into Aswan station this morning and then head straight to Abu Simbel by road through the Nubian Desert. The drive takes about four hours. Upon arrival, we have a little time at our accommodation to refresh ourselves.

It’s then onto Abu Simbel. Built by Ramses II, the two temples – where four great seated statues of the pharaoh stare east towards the rising sun – are undoubtedly among the most spectacular in Egypt.

Most tours visit Abu Simbel on a daytrip from Aswan starting very early in the morning. By visiting later in the day and staying overnight, we avoid the busiest times.

Accommodation: Eskaleh Nubian Ecolodge (or similar)

We leave Abu Simbel this morning and head back towards Aswan.

This is a laid-back town that reflects the character of its largely Nubian inhabitants, known for being friendly and hospitable. By virtue of its position on the old caravan route, it has always been a trading centre.

First, we visit the Aswan High Dam, one of the largest embankment dams in the world. Built in the 1960s, it has had a huge impact on Egypt – generating hydroelectricity and giving control over water levels and flooding downstream. However, more than 100,000 people had to relocate and archaeological sites were either moved or submerged.

Philae Temple is our next stop. In the 1970s, it was relocated by Unesco to Aglika Island after it became evident the original site would submerge on completion of the Aswan High Dam. It represents a magnificent and enduring testament to both ancient and modern engineering.

In the afternoon, we visit Animalia, a small museum exploring Nubian culture, flora and fauna. There is a small gift shop with handmade goods.

Accommodation: Tolip Aswan Hotel (or similar)

We leave Aswan in style this morning, boarding a traditional Egyptian sailing boat known as a felucca for a five-hour journey down the Nile. Rather than take a big cruise ship or drive straight past (as many trips do) we have time to gently navigate one of the world’s great rivers with lunch on board. On the journey, we are accompanied by a tug, which may assist us depending on the wind.

Reaching Kom Ombo, we disembark and visit the Temple of Kom Ombo. Unusually, this is a double temple, with rooms and courts duplicated. One half is dedicated to Sobek, the crocodile god, and the other to the falcon god, Haroeris.

From Kom Ombu, we continue by road to Esna where we visit the temple dedicated to Khnum, the ram-headed god of creation. Finally, we drive to Luxor where we stay the next two nights.

Accommodation: Aracan Eatabe Luxor Hotel (or similar)

We begin with a visit to the Valley of the Kings on the west bank of the Nile. The site contains the once-hidden tombs of more than 62 pharaohs, including Tutankhamun, Seti I, Ramses III and IV. A discreet hillside entrance takes us underground; a series of corridors and antechambers leads down to the burial chamber and sarcophagus. The walls are covered in brightly painted images and hieroglyphs – a map of the afterlife to ensure the king’s safe passage. One ticket allows us to see three tombs. The ticket usually allows entry into what are regarded as some of the most impressive tombs; however, if you have time, a visit to the tomb of Ramses VI is also highly recommended (extra cost). Entry to Tutankhamun’s tomb costs approximately US$12, payable locally. In terms of size and decoration, it is not as impressive as many of the other tombs but is, of course, historically fascinating. Visits to tombs are now strictly controlled to halt further deterioration of wall paintings – each tomb is periodically closed for a number of weeks.

Next stop is Queen Hatshepsut’s mortuary temple – a masterpiece of ancient architecture. The temple bears resemblance to classic Greek design yet is 1,000 years older. We have a tour of the site and then proceed to Carter House, a mud brick construction where Howard Carter was based while leading the team who discovered Tutankhamun’s tomb. The house is now a museum and contains maps, books and other items from Carter’s time there. Finally, we return to our hotel in Luxor for the night.

Accommodation: Aracan Eatabe Luxor Hotel (or similar)

Today we visit Luxor Temple and the huge Karnak Temple complex on the east bank of the Nile. Built over more than 1,500 years, Karnak is a mixture of pylons, courtyards, halls and sanctuaries. The Hypostyle Hall has 134 columns, some of which are more than 75ft (23m) high. Time permitting, we have the option to walk along the Avenue of the Sphinxes/Road of the Rams, which connects the Karnak and Luxor temples.

In the afternoon, we transfer to the airport and fly to Cairo and then travel to our hotel for our final night. The hotel in Cairo is a bit dated but convenient for the airport.

Accommodation: Golden Carven Hotel (or similar)

The adventure ends in Cairo. If you’d like more time to explore this fascinating city, speak to your sales representative about extending your stay.

We’ll be driven to Cairo airport for our flight back to London.